Continued...
The drive from Saskatchewan Crossing to Rocky Mountain House is long. The highway quality drops dramatically, which is unfortunate considering it's named after the legendary David Thompson. Add to the drive smoke, disappointment, no coffee, and growing regret, and the minutes will feel like hours.
"We didn't think this through. We pushed it too far and now it's backfiring," were my quiet thoughts. "What are we doing out here?"
Finally, we pulled into Rocky Mountain House. We went to a Canadian Tire to find a propane tank for our camping stove. Sold Out. Just like in every other place we tried the past three weeks.
Sigh.
What do you do when the train is charging off the tracks? You pull into a McDonald's to get ice cream, coffee, and iced tea. More specifically, you stop and regroup.
"Ok... think this through..." I grimaced. And I did. What came to mind were the many blessings at that moment. The air was super smoky at this point. Actually, it was dangerous to be outside. Thanks be to God that we had planned to be at a hotel for this particular night. To think that the original plan was made weeks ago! And thanks be to God that we missed our hike at Siffleur Falls (see previous post). It was actually too dangerous given the conditions. Another blessing.
The blessings continued. We pulled into our hotel. "Wow!" is all I could say. This little Canalta hotel was the best hotel I have ever been to. It was quiet, new, had a great pool, waterslide, fitness room, hotel room (with enough beds for everyone!), breakfast area... on and on the list went. Just like that, our dreadful day turned into a day of immense gratitude.
Day 6
Rocky Mountain House was revitalizing. The stay was short, but oh so sweet. The next morning was the feast of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel. We had been praying a special novena to her throughout. She was watching out for us. We hit the road.
The stops along the way felt exciting again instead of a drag like the previous day.
We actually found the turn to Siffleur Falls this day. In the back of my mind I was thinking, "Hoo boy... this better be good."
Past the swinging bridge which crossed the Saskatchewan River (where it is actually clean!), we ran into two old guys.
Sayeth us: "How far to Siffleur Falls?"
Sayeth them: "Oh, just go to the right. Maybe 3 kilometres ahead."
It was not just to the right, 3 kilometres ahead. It was well past 5 km ahead (a possible 11km hike in total), on an up-down-twist-turn path. We never saw anyone else for over an hour. On we went. Carrying kids as needed. Past streams and rivers. The farther we went, the clearer the air became.
At last we approached the look-outs, and then the falls. For the most part, we were alone. We ate, sang, and relaxed. New best hike ever.
Siffleur Falls: You did good.
This day was far from over. After the hike we hit the road for Jasper. More driving. However, this was Icefield driving. Essentially this means you drive high up a mountain. Then drive higher. Hmmm... go even higher than that. Follow that up with a steep twist down while riding your brakes. An idiot in a camper pulls out in front of you. Don't hit the mountain goats. Up again. Higher this time. Down hard! Up. Around... you get the idea. The Columbia Icefields will put you in your place in a real hurry. Grand is too small of a word.
As we approached Jasper we noticed a change in the weather. The heat dropped, and clouds and blessed rain came! For a while we couldn't see much. However, just as we approached our campground (Whistlers) the clouds cleared. The smoke, too. And there were the mountains we had spent the past three years longing for. Jasper was here. Rather, we were in Jasper.
Day 7
Stiffness and wetness greeted our first morning. Becca and I are both now closer to 40 than 30. We decided to take it easy and tour Sunwapta Falls. On our way we saw this fine specimen.
He came as close as 15 feet from our van, which was the point where I decided we needed to keep going (this was less than 2k from our hike).
Note: Emilie is very strong-willed and determined. This helped her with the hiking. Yes, I did carry her quite a bit. But she also plowed along quite well for a new five-year-old. Also, she is the classiest dressed hiker you will ever see.
A brief note on food. For most of our lunches we ate peanut butter and banana wraps. They are easy to make, can be stored even without ice, and provide great energy. "The Sandwich" soon became, "The Banana Wrap".
After the hike we spent some time in Jasper. Ice cream was in order (as it was for 4 consecutive days there).
Check out this mountain!
The Park (with "Our Mountain" in the background):
At some point Becca said, "Oh, it would be great to live here!" To which I replied, "Just wait until we go to Mass tonight."
Yes, we went to Saturday evening Mass. It was awful, as expected. Most Catholics have no faith or sense of beauty anymore. We also found out some very, very, unfortunate and disturbing news after Mass. Read about it HERE.
Day 8
The next morning Becca and I were still in shock from the news the previous evening. Though we were originally planning on driving to nearby Medicine Lake (a favourite spot), we changed plans at the last minute. The need to leave civilization, somewhere high and far away, took over. We went to the Edith Cavell hike.
It was a slow 17km drive up a mountain. We stepped out of the van and noted how much colder it was. Cold, empty, and raw. Perfect.
First to the glacier and basin.
Then onward and upward. The air was the freshest I've ever breathed. The colour unmatched. The grandeur a foretaste of the Holy Mountain.
After some serious hiking, the younger kids grew tired. We decided, unfortunately, to turn back. It was just too far and too hard. As we were heading down a lady came plowing up. She grew up in the area, and said she hiked this one even as a six-year-old. She encouraged us to keep going. So we did.
Thanks lady. And I mean that not-sarcastically. New best hike ever.
The alpine meadows. Far away from the cares of the world. It is no wonder that God uses mountains for so many amazing works in the Bible. They really are the perfect setting. When I can't sleep, I put my mind back there. Praise Him in the heights.
And finally:
Don't fool yourself. The trip down a mountain is difficult too. The calf muscles are not meant for such a downgrade. Of all things on our way down, we saw two marmots fighting. Now that's something I will probably never see again.
At the bottom we stopped by the cold glacier stream for our signature dish: "The Banana Wraps". I also had a few sips of water straight from the stream.
*Pro Tip: Always do hikes as early as you can. There are few-to-no people out early in the morning).
The rest of the day saw more ice-cream, and we moved campsites to Pocahontas campground (40min from Jasper). At this campground we met up with Becca's sister and her 5-year-old son. Our kids enjoyed the cousin time.
Day 9
"One more night to go
One more sleep upon your burning bank
A greedy man never knows
What he's done.
A natural beauty should be preserved like a monument to nature."
Neil Young - Natural Beauty
One more night. Our last full day began with a hike. It's funny, but we never intended our trip to be like this. It just happened. We now would wake up saying, "Ok, where will we hike to today?" I love it. I'm not a sit-around-on-vacation kind of person. A day at the beach feels long. I need to get out and experience nature. Probably I have an inner need to be put in my place by nature.
We all (auntie and cousin too) did the 5 Lakes hike. It was pretty well empty while we were there. It clocked in at 7.2km. The water at one of the lakes (called Lake 1 - how creative) was mesmerizing.
On the way back we passed through a meadow. Not an alpine meadow, but a nice one all the same.
And press pause on life. Becca and I just sat and stared at it all. Peace and quiet have a new meaning. Dostoevsky famously said that beauty would save the world. But beauty is not saving the world. Yes, we do not create beautiful things anymore (or hardly). Perhaps most importantly, we are too filled with the noise of life to notice anything that is beautiful. Unplug. Get away. John Senior would repeat, "Smash the television set!" I guarantee you he wasn't joking either. Smash the T.V. Smash the phone. Smash the computer. Smash whatever it is that is bringing ungodly noise into your life.
Then sit. Rest. And maybe, once this is all done, beauty will begin to save.
"Late have I loved you, O Beauty ever ancient, ever new, late have I loved you!" (St. Augustine).
Time has run out. Maybe in another three years it will come again. I wish I had taken more time to let it all soak in. I wish I had more time than I did. But when you race from one event to the next, you forget how to rest. Plus, it's busy being a parent. Oh so busy. When I say that I, an avid reader, read only half of a page the entire trip, I wasn't joking. But I wish I had sat just a few more minutes at one of those quiet places. It's a regret I haven't shaken yet. Just a few more minutes there. I pine for it.
The rest of the day was filled with swimming in a gorgeous lake, eating more ice-cream, and enjoying a pleasant supper all together. All in all, a most wonderful time.
Day 10
Our slowest day of packing up. We were tired, sore, and maybe more than a little sad. Finally we pulled out of the campground. Our intention was to do one last mini-farewell hike. However, the smoke returned, and so we hit the road. It is rather amazing to think how the smoke cleared up at just the right times during our trip. Deo Gratias.
To Edson, halfway between Jasper and Edmonton, for their neat spray park and outdoor fitness centre. And... sandwiches too (we're rather sick of sandwiches now, btw).
As we pulled into Edmonton we decided to do a quick stop at the West Edmonton Mall. We didn't buy anything. We just showed the kids around a bit. They liked the Lego store the best. It got our minds off the mountains a little bit. However, the noise of the city was jarring. I suppose you can't run away forever.
At our hotel that night we were harassed somewhat for having four children (the poor Days Inn hotel, apparently, would go bankrupt if four children stayed in a room). Also, the hotel was a hotspot for COVID insanity. Example: I went to the workout room in the morning. There was a guy there on an exercise bike. Alone. Wearing a mask. Watching CNN...
Day 11
“Don’t adventures ever have an end? I suppose not. Someone else always has to carry on the story”
- Bilbo Baggins
The day began with a 7:30am Mass at the FSSP in Edmonton. The TLM always gets thrown into the ugliest churches around. I wonder why bishops do this... To send a message? To secretly hope the TLM crowd will fix the ugliness? I'm not sure.
Swimming followed. 4+ hours. My happy place growing up was always the World Water Park. But now it is on the top of a mountain. Nevertheless, I will admit I am not so serious now as to pass on the slides at the Mall!
We pulled out of the Mall at around 2:30pm. Our plan was to drive to Lloydminster for the night. However...
Yes, we drove the entire way. It was fine until a 30-minute train delay in North Battleford drove us nearly crazy. Also, Jude cried for most of the final two hours.
At 11:32pm we pulled into our driveway. This whirlwind of fun, adventure, excitement, disappointment, and awe will take many more weeks for me to unpack in my brain. I know, I know, it was just a vacation. Yet I also believe there are some deep life-lessons waiting to be discovered.
* * *
I write this on the feast of the Transfiguration. My mind has been thinking about this feast non-stop ever since our Edith Cavell hike. St. Peter's cluelessness as to what was happening... yet his recognition that it was something profound. It was the foretaste of heaven he experienced. And in my own little way I wonder... could it be so?
No, we cannot stay up there. Not while living on this earth. It is down we go, to our suffering, and even crucifixion. Yet the memory of the Transfiguration, I am sure, must have brought Peter some comfort when times got tough.
As will my own memory of it all.
Now, back into the fight.
